The Cave Dwellers of Xian

Billed as a taxi-tour to the Terra Cotta Warriors (the self-proclaimed ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’ - quiz question: how many ‘eighth wonders of the world’ are there out there?), in truth, the most fascinating part of the tour came after we had left the Terra Cotta Warriors museum, a stop about an hour out of Xian.

Now this stop was one of those ‘foreign tourist’ moments, without question – but certainly not a typical one. To experience it, we had to accept we could only be intrusive voyeurs, briefly looking upon a life so far removed from our own – yet so damn fascinating the situation had to be accepted at face value. There was no way we belonged up there on that hillside. Worse still, aside from a pack of cigarettes and a few candies and balloons for the local kids, there was basically no benefit to the local villagers, particularly the one kind enough to show us his cave – his home. Only mutual fascination we each shared.

As we left the village, our tour guide Clarence Guo, showed us an article in Time Magazine in which his original cave tour was featured – proving that word of mouth does travel far. Guo is the only tour guide who takes tourists to these cave dwellings – he discovered them by accident some years back when he was taking tourists to see a nearby village.

We had heard about his tour some days earlier (through a friend of a friend), but assumed there would be numerous tours taking tourists to these cave dwellings. After searching the Internet then talking to a couple local tour guides, we realised that indeed this cave dwelling tour was something unique – so we called up Clarence and booked immediately for the next day.

Set on a cliff so compelling those living there probably had long forgotten how fortunate they were to have such a site to look out onto each and every day.

An earlier cave, now apparently uninhabited...

The Terra Cotta Warriors

Yes, for most there is really only one reason to go to Xian - The Terra Cotta Warriors (the self-proclaimed 'Eighth Wonder of the World'. Okay, perhaps this is too much of a claim, but I didn't make it. Anyway, they are pretty impressive (though as I will discuss in the next entry, this probably wasn't even the true highlight of the trip).

So, for the record, here they are - the several thousand year old Terra Cotta Warriors...

Though they were 'officially' discovered (by accident) in 1976, there is plenty of evidence that others knew they were there. For example, there was this cave where someone lived, right in the middle of the underground cavern where the warriors were buried.

Before a little reconstruction...

The remains of a horse-pulled chariot...

...And New Amersterdam, China

Following hot on the heels of the German-style town discussed in the previous post, we came to 'Amsterdam, China'. Yes, who would have believed it. But here it is...

Yes, that's a real Dutch guy, kids!

This is where it's all gonna be happening!

Treasure Planting!!! OOOOOOHHHHH!!!! I can't wait....

And of course, as always, hold your hand and green your step!

TO NEW ANTING!!!

When you have an architect friend visiting, the first request is usually not the typical tourist route. Buildings and new developments seem to be a higher priority. Fortunately, these are things which also fascinate me, as a non-architect.

Around Shanghai, wiser minds than most have decreed that several - 9 I believe - 'imitation towns' shall be built. That is, replica's of other cities or countries in the world. Thames Town is one, a charming English town, as is Amsterdam (featured in the next entry).

But our first stop was New Anting, a Northern German-inspired theme town set to house 8000 families of over 20,000 people in total. Let's see how it plays out. Unfortunately, at present only 200 families have taken the bait - in spite of the town being all-but-completed. Quite a sight to see - a real live ghost town, as if transported straight from Europe! I assure you, you've never experienced anything quite like it. So here it is...

Two imposing, European-styled, unnamed (and seemingly lost) explorer-types welcomed us.

No detail was spared - flawless, tree-lined, newly constructed canals...

Authentic cement posts, pained to look like wood...

Minty-fresh buildings like this one...



Colour-themed areas of town - like this 'red district'...

Wonderful, almost-natural coloured brown stones cemented together alongside the 'river'...

And of course security....

...and more security...

But no cars allowed!! (because cars create ATMOSPHERE and ACTIVITY in a city
- even a 'city' - and we wouldn't want too much of that...



But no less then an utterly compelling vision for the future...

If it wasn't desolate, three kilometres in the middle of nowhere, outside of Anting town (which is itself 30 km outside of Shanghai, though billed as a 'Shanghai suberb'), and of course, soon to be neglected (as soon as the last apartment is sold), I might even be tempted to live there myself...

Another little Beijing Note: The Dashanzi Art District

Another highlight from Beijing (and serious deficit in Shanghai) is the vivid underground art scene. While Shanghai has to content itself with a (mildly underground) art street (Taikang Lu) and a few scattered galleries, Beijing has an old industrial district now converted into row after row of fantastic art galleries. The area is so large one can refer to the 'thriving underground Beijing art scene' by simply pointing to this single area, eliminating any doubt about whether such a thing truly exists or not. The same definitive claim can unfortunately not be made in Shanghai.

There are some truly spectacular former industrial plant turned gallery conversions, such as the one pictured here.

And should there be any doubt regarding the will of these artists to offer a few necessary (and sorely lacking) political critisms, look no further.

To add to the whole...well, mystique of the areas ambiance and atmosphere, are pipes running throughout the area emiting puffs of steam continually...

Incidently, if you are ever looking for the space of all spaces to stage a little bash, this place pictured below is without any question the place to make it happen.

Yes, that's right, China - Number One! Umm, well...perhaps.

A Little Beijing note: That's an antique market...

On a recent little diversion over to Beijing, we headed out to what was reputedly Beijing's largest antique market. It didn't disappoint. Rather, it left us longing for such a thing in Shanghai. Now, there is a nice little rustic antique market spanning a couple streets in Shanghai (to be featured in an upcoming entry), but it has nowhere near the scope of Beijing's vast and fascinating market.

Let's be clear, first of all. Like so many other things in China, the term 'antique' is used quite loosely and may not be quite what it seems. Rather, it is a euphemism for 'stereotypical Chinese cultural relics' These may in fact be brand new, or perhaps they were just buried in a garden for a few days or months to give them that authentic 'been around for a while' look. Believe me, anything and everything is possible in China, especially in places like Shanghai and Beijing.

I must admit, I really wanted one of these little evil looking guys...

Hey, you never know when a bit of broken pottery will come in handy...

Or a stuffed deer head...

Well...

Or perhaps you'd prefer to wake up every morning to this...

An intense bargaining session for this one failed - I was at 50 RMB, she was still at 180 RMB when I ran out of time to continue...a shame, there was something about this guy I really found cool.